Once Was the Duvet

I’m a creature of habit, in my real and blogging life: habits give me discipline and are a way to exorcise the fear of the unknown. For this reason, it’s not a coincidence if I’ve been regularly writing about the same topics for years. I’m not a blogger who wants to achieve success or make money (which may sound strange, but it’s the truth), so I can afford the luxury of following my beloved recurring themes, without the urgency to write about the latest news in fashion.

As a big fan of Italian designers who have become successful in France, I have a soft spot for Giambattista Valli and for what he has done at Moncler [1] since he started working on the Gamme Rouge collection. The line of extremely refined duvets is undergoing an interesting evolution, because now it includes skiwear and some mini-dresses. I selected my favourite pieces, but you can see the complete collection here.

The Fall/Winter 2009 collection heavily paid homage to Russian culture and history (the references to the 19th century were quite clear), but this time I cannot see a leit motif or a common source of inspiration. Here I find many themes from the stunning Fall/Winter 2008 collection, starting from ribbons. I don’t know your opinion on this collarless cream tweed coat, but I think it’s simply breath-taking: the application of curly ribbons turns it into a work of art. The ribbons look like wood shavings or butterballs, and they give a magic mood to a very simple garment.

Big funnel collars are a trademark of Valli’s style in his Gamme Rouge collections, so it feels like I’ve seen a hundred times the white jacket on the left, which is actually very nice, with the slighly gathered peplum. The same deja-vu feeling comes from the white cape, another staple in the collections designed by the Italian artist. This one is decorated by a tiny bow and has an origami-like square decorations at the hem.

In these two jackets, technical and precious fabrics mix: the results are lovely. A black tulle overlay covers the white duvet and is embellished with silver grey sequins, so as to achieve a scale-like effect. The jacket on the left has got a drawstring at the waist (a sporty detail), while the one on the right is short-sleeved and has rounded hems. Am I the only one who thinks the sequins make the short-sleeved jacket look like a modern coat of mail?

Funnel collars again: both the short jacket and the long coat are impressive and very dramatic. The origami-like pattern of the white cape characterize these items, too. Though not a fan of fur clothing, I must admit the black mink is what makes the coat stunning. I cannot help but admiring the tailoring techniques used here: the black mink has the same square pattern that we can see in the part made of silk duvet.

Velvet ribbons decorate the sleeveless shift dress and the cape on the right. I like both of them, because they have a futuristic but romantic vibe, yet I think the black ribbons don’t stand out on a black garment. The decorations are sublime but the final effect is quite dull.

Wave-shaped sequined embroideries and black mongolian fur peplum are the main features of this jacket, which includes ribbed wool collar and cuffs (another sporty detail).

The same wave-shaped sequin decorations can be found in this unique ski-suit. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such an intriguing and disquieting ski-suit in my life: it’s intriguing because it looks like an evening garment, with all that sparkling, or like Diabolik’s costume, but it’s also disquieting because it completely covers the body, except for the eyes (the model is wearing goggles on purpose).

A bronze shiny material (could it be taffeta or coated nylon fabric?) is the common thread between these two items, a sleeveless shift dress and a collarless coat. They present the origami-like square motif at the hem, topped by a cute black bow.

The image above includes two different items, but I decided to put them one next to the other because they have the same colour, a beautiful light warm brown which reminds me of marron glacés. The one on the right is an ingenious version of the classic cable-knit sweater, with ribbed collar and cuffs (the gathered peplum makes it feminine), while the second one, a long coat, features the recurring origami-like motif at the hem.

The last picture is connected to the first, because it’s a short version, in red, of the curly ribbon coat I posted as opening image. Both are fantastic, but I prefer this one, because this orange-based red shade is amazing. I picked the picture where the model is turned sideways because the multi-dimensional quality of the decoration is clearly visible.

Though not particularly original nor ground-breaking, I have appreciated the collection. I don’t agree with the styling of the model: I love the cashmere ribbed catsuit and gloves she is wearing in all the pictures, and I also like the black goggles resembling a hairband and a sleeping mask, but I cannot get the icy white make-up: it incredibly washes the model out and makes her white complexion look ghastly.

Which one of these jackets would you like to swap your winter coat, parka or duvet for? I’d surely go for the red jacket or for the cable-knit sweater, they are both gorgeous!

[1] I contacted Moncler’s press-office to get more information about the collection, the names of the styles in particular, but I had no reply from them. I know I’m not the most famous Italian blogger, but a simple “sorry, but we can’t give you this information” would have been enough. Disappointing.

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8 comments

  1. tu sei sempre bravissima e competente. Pur non essendo la più famosa italian blogger 🙂
    Ricordi per la settimana della moda che ti dissi? 20 uffici stampa contattati, risposte: 0.

    1. Certo, mi ricordo benissimo! Vabbè, il post l’ho scritto lo stesso, peccato non sia venuto bene come avrei voluto.

  2. That ski-suit is slightly scary, yet I have a feeling we’ll soon be seeing it on our dear friend Gaga… 🙂
    I love the black sleeveless dress, but as you point out, the ribbons don’t stand out on it. I don’t dislike this collection, but I’m not a fan of squared, block-ish shoulders (I actually don’t like square shapes much, not just in garments but in general), if I am not mistaken this pattern was not so recurrent in the previous years…
    As for your footnote: it is really disappointing, especially because it’s part of their job! It’s sad to realise that politeness is no longer in fashion.

    1. Ohhh, you’re right: she has a soft soft for anything sparkling, scary and “subtly” revealing. In this case, she’d be completely covered but exposed at the same time. Well, probably Valli designed this suit using GaGa as his primary source of inspiration, who knows?

      Yes, you’re right: squared shapes define this collection, while the past collections had rounded, egg-shaped lines.

      Well, I don’t think it’s a question of politeness, but of interest. I guess they don’t care of an obscure fashion blog…

  3. Anche io li ho contattati (per lavoro, sono redattrice in una rivista di moda), nessuna risposta. O ricevono mille richieste di informazioni al dì, oppure sono cafoni 🙂

    1. Questo mi pare piuttosto grave. Che non rispondano a me, direi che è normale, ma che non rispondano a te, che fai la redattrice in una rivista di settore, non è scusabile. Alla luce dei fatti, mi chiedo chi siano i fortunati che ricevono una risposta da loro…

  4. dei capi imbottiti mi affascina l’«effetto armatura» di un materiale in realtà morbido… e i riccioli di burro!! ho sempre adorato i riccioli di burro.
    (il primo collo alto mi pare il piumino perfetto, ma in avorio non lo porterei)

    1. Vero? Non sono meravigliosi quei nastri arricciati in maniera così leziosa?

      Il piumino è bellissimo, in avorio però importabile. Un bel nero qui ci starebbe!

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